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Inside Paris’ opulent new studying room (and different book-lover havens)


A surprising new public library and excessive temple to studying has opened in Paris for each native and touring bibliophiles. It goes by a nickname that couldn’t be extra apt: the Oval Paradise.

After a painstaking 12-year restoration that carried a price ticket of €261 million, the Bibliothèque Nationale de France’s historic Richelieu website in 2nd arrondissement has reopened the final of its studying rooms, giving Parisians and guests a hovering new area wherein to learn, work, examine, write…or simply daydream. 

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And in contrast to the library’s different studying areas – that are reserved completely for accredited researchers – the Oval Room (Salle Ovale) is free to make use of and open to most people.

Readers in the Salle Ovale at the Richelieu site of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris
Locals and guests alike are welcome to twist up with a e book and skim for hours within the hovering Salle Ovale © Vivian Track

Because it opened its doorways final September, the Oval Paradise has turn into Paris’s latest architectural attraction. A monumental glass ceiling brings pure mild flooding into the majestic setting, the place 20,000 books on French artwork, historical past and literature – all free to peruse – are stacked below hovering archways.

Nevertheless it’s not all textbook academia. Should you’re extra into manga than Montesquieu, you might have an interest to be taught that just about half (or 9000) of the room’s holdings include comedian books and graphic novels from world wide, the biggest assortment of its type in France. 

Should you’re a pupil or working remotely, park your self at any one of many lengthy tables within the heart of the room (the place you’ll discover free wi-fi and charging retailers). Should you’re extra excited about performing some leisurely studying within the hallowed halls of arguably probably the most stunning public studying room in Paris, settle into an armchair or a spot on a bench and dig into your e book undisturbed.

The library’s refresh, which was timed to coincide with the positioning’s three hundredth anniversary, additionally features a newly open museum space, the Mazarin Gallery, which options 900 highlights from the library’s assortment of historical maps, stamps and manuscripts. 

The newly renovated Mazarin Gallery at the Richelieu site of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris
The Mazarin Gallery, adjoining to the Salle Ovale, shows highlights from the Bibliothèque Nationale de France’s peerless collections © Guillaume Murat

If you’re carried out studying, head over to the museum to take a look at Victor Hugo’s unique manuscript for Les Misérables, Mozart’s hand-written rating for the opera Don Giovanni and handwritten pages from Marcel Proust’s In Search of Misplaced Time

The very best locations in Paris for studying 

The revival of the Oval Room makes an thrilling addition to town’s literary tradition. But deeply literary Paris has by no means been wanting idyllic studying spots. From historic cafés and bookshops frequented by a few of Western literature’s best intellectuals to intimate areas that present simply the fitting backdrop for cracking open a brand new e book, listed below are another locations to flee with an incredible e book in Paris.

Reading in Shakespeare & Co
Straight throughout the Seine from Notre-Dame, Shakespeare and Firm is a real bookworm’s paradise © Vivian Track / Will Salter / Lonely Planet

Shakespeare and Firm

When American expat George Whitman opened Shakespeare and Company in 1951 throughout from the Notre-Dame Cathedral, his goal was to revive the literary legacy of American bookseller and writer Sylvia Seaside, whose bookshop of the identical title attracted expat writers like Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein earlier than she was pressured to shut by the Nazis.

After winding your means by the aisles at floor stage, head upstairs to one of many studying rooms, the place floor-to-ceiling cabinets groan below the load of classic books which are free to learn. A strict “no pictures” coverage ensures few distractions for severe readers desirous to dive into their quantity within the ghostly presence of writers like James Baldwin, Richard Wright and Henry Miller – all onetime Whitman prospects.

Should you get thirsty, head subsequent door to the Shakespeare and Firm Café; if you happen to crave a spot of recent air, head to the close by Square René Viviani, house to the oldest tree in Paris.

Reading in Paris - Place de Voges.jpg
Place des Vosges boasts a powerful literary connection © Vivian Track

Place des Vosges

Whereas it’s secure to say that any of Paris’s gardens makes for a scenic studying spot, Place des Vosges within the Marais boasts a very sturdy literary connection: it was the house of Victor Hugo. The creator of Les Misérables and The Hunchback of Notre-Dame lived in an house on the southeast nook of the sq. – as we speak a free museum that reopened in 2021 with a brand new courtyard cafe.

Museum or no museum, Place des Vosges is just one of the crucial stunning squares in Paris. In hotter climate, linden timber present shade over the park benches, whereas birds present a soothing soundtrack. If it will get chilly, take refuge in any of the cafes alongside the arcades and proceed your studying with a sizzling drink and a scenic view.

Reading in L'eau et les reves
L’eau et les rêves is a floating cafe-bookshop © Vivian Track

L’eau et les rêves

Removed from the vacationer crowds, on the northeast fringe of Paris’s nineteenth arrondissement, a floating cafe-bookshop bears a poetic title that interprets to Water and Dreams. On clear, heat days, the upstairs terrace of the barge gives readers a waterfront view of the canal alongside the quai de l’Oise. Under deck, the area is split between a bookshop and library with books that guests are free to leaf by.

The cafe-restaurant serves up beer, wine and sizzling drinks, together with sizzling meals, cheese and charcuterie boards, plus brunches come the weekend. Although a lot of the books are in French, a perusal of the library might yield a number of English-language surprises like a replica of a New Yorker journal and journey books.

Reading in La Belle Hortense with a glass of wine
Wine-loving bibliophiles will love La Belle Hortense © Vivian Track

La Belle Hortense

Wine-loving bibliophiles ought to head to the Marais, the place books and wine are given equal place of honor within the intimate literary wine bar La Belle Hortense. Should you go proper when the doorways open at 5:30pm, you’re extra more likely to nab the only real desk for 2 on the entrance of the bar, at which you’ll learn whereas sipping a glass of dry, oaky white wine like Pouilly-Fuissé or a strong, full-bodied shiraz. Should you’re feeling daring, sit down on the zinc bar alongside the locals and let their sing-song French chatter and the smooth-jazz background music create simply sufficient ambient noise to reinforce your studying expertise.

The novels, biographies, poetry collections and cookbooks that line the partitions are all on the market, as are the bottles of fastidiously chosen French wines that fill the decrease cabinets. If you need slightly extra privateness, head to the again room for a quieter time earlier than the dinner crowd settles in.

Reading in Cafe de Flore with a cup of coffee
Cafe de Flore was a gathering place assembly place for literary greats like Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote and Albert Camus © Vivian Track

Café de Flore

It will be a disgrace to write down off Café de Flore as only a vacationer entice. But the lengthy queues of vacationers shouldn’t detract from the cafe’s wealthy heritage as a second house to writers Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre; the birthplace of existentialism; and a gathering place for literary greats like Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote and Albert Camus. In different phrases, the overall din of cafe life as we speak is probably going not that a lot totally different from the cacophony again in its heyday, when expat writers and French intellectuals used the cafe as their mental salon.

Between sips of the spot’s famously wealthy sizzling chocolate, channel the spirit of Sartre over a number of pages of Being and Nothingness. If that’s too heavy, go for a brief story by Hemingway or Mavis Gallant. Subsequent door, Les Deux Magots boasts a equally illustrious heritage, with a clientele that after included French poet Arthur Rimbaud and writers James Joyce and James Baldwin.



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