Why English wine is extra magnificence than beast

There was a time, not that way back, when the seek for English wine meant kissing a lot of frogs. However at this yr’s WineGB Awards judging it was a distinct story – there had been much more beauties than beasts.

Glowing wine – which accounts for two-thirds of Britain’s manufacturing – was the strongest class, with some entries that basically had been world-class. Simply as fascinating, although, was the sheer number of wines on present; we tasted heavyweight luxurious cuvées, luminous blanc de blancs, Burgundian Pinot Noirs; pores and skin contact wines, pét-nats, Chardonnays, Ortegas and pale-pink rosés. 

“As a result of Britain is just not traditionally a wine-growing area we’re not certain by as many rules,” says awards co-chair Susie Barrie MW. “Consequently there are so many individuals now attempting enjoyable and fascinating stuff.”

HTSI Curates

To showcase the depth and selection now to be present in English wine, Alice Lascelles has put collectively a field of six excellent wines for readers to purchase, lots of them winners on this yr’s WineGB Awards. Out there UK solely, £199 plus delivery. Go to ft.com/htsi-curates

This was a yr when nonetheless wines, specifically, confirmed a serious step up in high quality. The upscale Kent vineyard Gusbourne confirmed its status as a maker of spectacular Burgundy-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay by profitable the Greatest Nonetheless Wine trophy. One other trophy winner, Package’s Coty Bacchus 2019 from Kent’s Chapel Down, proved that Bacchus – a cheery grape selection paying homage to Sauvignon Blanc – can have a extra severe facet.

Essex has additionally these days emerged as a hotspot for nonetheless wines. The gold-medal-winning Painter of Mild Chardonnay 2020 by London’s city vineyard Blackbook was made with fruit from Latchingdon. Crouch Valley’s Danbury Ridge, whereas not within the competitors, has additionally received approval for its velvety Pinot Noir. “I wouldn’t be shocked if Essex ultimately proves to be England’s Côte d’Or,” says the influential advisor winemaker, and outgoing head winemaker at Hattingley Valley, Emma Rice.

Within the glowing wine classes smaller and newer names carried off prime awards. The Traditional Cuvée NV Trophy was received by the Brut Reserve No 6 from Harrow & Hope, a family-run domaine in Buckinghamshire’s Chiltern Hills – an achievement much more spectacular when you think about this winery will probably be licensed natural by June 2023.

The title of Supreme Champion went to Sussex winery Artelium, a relative newcomer that has labored with a roster of visitor winemakers. Greatest in present was its statuesque Blanc de Blancs 2015 by Dermot Sugrue – a traditional-method fizz with the grandeur of a status cuvée and the gasp-inducing freshness of an oyster. “The blanc de blancs had been notably excellent this yr,” says Awards co-chair Oz Clarke. “Particularly the ones that had a little bit of age on them, which added nutty, creamy depth.”

Not everybody in Britain, nevertheless, is making wines within the picture of champagne. Sussex renegade Tillingham and Kent’s Westwell Wines, for instance, owe extra to the low-intervention traditions of central and jap Europe – ageing in amphorae, fermenting with wild yeasts, making orange wines and pét-nats. Westwell’s MD/winemaker Adrian Pike co-founded the file label Moshi Moshi – and that indie spirit carries over into Westwell’s labels that function hand-drawn illustrations that would adorn a file sleeve.

Ninety-eight per cent of Britain’s 879 vineyards (and the overwhelming majority of its 195 wineries) are in England – principally within the south and south-east. Is such a factor as a recognisably “English” fashion rising?

“Our cool local weather implies that even once we get hold of good ripeness, we keep unbelievable acidity,” says Emma Rice, “and that’s one thing that many growers in Champagne and Burgundy at the moment are combating [because of climate change]. So long as it’s fastidiously managed, that acidity may give a wine fineness, linearity, class and nice purity of fruit. It makes it vibrant and mouthwatering – and makes you need to drink one other glass.”

“English wine is at a very thrilling juncture – the standard has by no means been larger,” agrees Seamus Sharkey, former head sommelier at The Ledbury and the man chargeable for the English wine record at The George in Fitzrovia, which is among the greatest within the nation. “We’ve got wines from Dorset to Kent to Leicestershire; a mixture of well-established producers and newcomers who’re making wine with sensible power and potential.”

English vintages are at all times a nail-biter, however on the time of going to press, 2022 was trying nice: “It’s monitoring to be pretty much as good as 2018, which was a sensational yr,” says Gusbourne’s Charlie Holland.

Should you haven’t made a foray into English wine but, then begin your journey right here. 

@alicelascelles

FTWeekend Pageant, London

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